Dreyden | An artistic-style men's cashmere brand with high cost-performance LP fabric, self-operated by a third-generation Hong Kong factory.
I first encountered Dreyden at Lane Crawford. Eddy initially bought two fine-knit cashmere T-shirts that he wore all summer, and they were impressively comparable to 1436’s fine-knit cashmere. This left a strong impression, leading to another purchase—a heavy-knit, cable high-neck sweater from Dreyden. Given the possibility that the brand might not continue in the future, here’s a dedicated look at Dreyden.
Brand Story
The Team Lee factory was founded in the 1950s and is currently run by its third-generation owner, Carolyn Yim. After graduating from Columbia University with a degree in English and Comparative Literature, Carolyn took over and launched her own brands: the women’s knitwear brand Ply-Knits and the men’s cashmere brand Dreyden (which is also managed by her father, Kenneth Yim).
In the early 1950s, the first generation of Team Lee, Mrs. Lee, became known for her exquisite craftsmanship, even catching the attention of Christian Dior, who sought her textile skills to produce pieces for Dior’s John Galliano collection, Shanghai Pin-Ups. Under the second generation’s management—a Columbia graduate—Team Lee grew into a supplier for prominent brands, including Loro Piana. Now, under Carolyn’s leadership, the company emphasizes innovation in cashmere knitwear, as well as working with merino and silk.
The Team Lee Knitters factory is based in Changping Town, Dongguan, a region known for high-end garment factories and premium yarn suppliers. With a history spanning nearly 70 years, Team Lee Knitters boasts rich expertise in knit production, honed through 20 years of experience with SHIMA SEKI automated knitting machines. The factory has 90 knitting machines (ranging from 1 to 5 years in use) and 50 employees, with a computerized API system that enhances efficiency and transparency in production processes.
For social responsibility and worker rights, Team Lee Knitters is certified by the Fair Wear Foundation in Europe and the Business Social Compliance Initiative in North America.
Currently, Team Lee collaborates with clients including Zegna, MaxMara, DVF, Net-A-Porter, Saks Fifth Avenue's private labels, and Proenza Schouler , along with brands like the British cashmere label Pringle of Scotland, shirt brand Van Laack, M.M. Lafleur for professional womenswear, and labels like Nomia, La Ligne, Rachel Comey, and Rosetta Getty.
In a 2020 interview with Forbes, when Carolyn Yim was asked who Dreyden’s customers were, she explained that the brand's clientele primarily consists of Hong Kong politicians, businessmen, and individuals who have a refined understanding of quality clothing. These are people who value craftsmanship, appreciate understated luxury (often referred to as "old money" or "quiet luxury"), but are shrewd in their purchasing decisions, avoiding excessive markups for brand names.
The selling points of both Ply-Knits and Dreyden are the brands’ mature production capabilities, their deep understanding of materials and craftsmanship, and the transparency with which they can answer any questions about their manufacturing process. Their products are made in-house, which keeps costs down. Compared to brands like Loro Piana, where a simple cashmere T-shirt could cost a few thousand dollars, Dreyden’s cashmere T-shirts are priced around 3,000-4,000 RMB, making them much more affordable.
Differences Between Men’s and Women’s Lines
A key distinction between the men’s and women’s lines lies in the materials. In fashion, there’s a common rule: men’s clothing tends to use better materials than women’s. Women’s fashion is often more about the design, while men’s fashion prioritizes fabric quality.
For Dreyden, the men’s collection uses Loro Piana cashmere, sourced directly from the factory, and is handcrafted. In contrast, the women’s collection uses scraps of leftover yarns, inventory stock, and some simpler materials. The overall style of the women’s line has a more youthful, influencer-driven look, with some pieces incorporating Tasmanian silk and Swiss linen fabrics.
Dreyden’s Distribution and Pricing
Ply-Knits can be found on platforms like Farfetch, Net-a-Porter, and The Paris Review. However, Dreyden has only been sold through Lane Crawford, and this year, the brand’s stock was removed from the main site and now only available in Lane Crawford’s outlet. Since new collections are no longer being introduced, it’s possible to find Dreyden items at a 50% discount, especially during holiday sales, with additional promotions available if you purchase multiple pieces.
Dreyden’s pricing remains competitive, as the brand, thanks to its independent factory, follows a value-for-money approach. This makes the brand great value, especially when compared to other luxury cashmere labels.
The Name and Symbolism
Dreyden is named after John Dryden, an English poet. The brand’s logo features a Chinese lion tossing a ball of embroidery, inspired by the decorative motifs found in traditional Chinese architecture. The brand’s signature envelope-style button is a nod to Button’s Coffee House, one of John Dryden’s favorite coffee shops in London.
Dreyden has also collaborated with the London and Beijing-based fashion illustrator Mr. Slowboy, and their work has been featured in The Paris Review, reflecting Carolyn’s literary background. The brand’s target audience is described as being for artists, writers, and the occasional philosopher, which aligns with the design-focused and artsy nature of its men’s clothing. The Dreyden men’s cashmere sweaters have a more artistic and literary cut compared to the more traditional styles seen in brands like Erdos.
The Mr. Slowboy Collaboration
One of the most distinctive features of Dreyden’s designs are the illustrations by Mr. Slowboy, which have been applied to some of their cashmere pieces. These cartoon-style designs can currently be found in Lane Crawford’s outlet, but personally, the author and their companion weren’t fond of the designs, even though the cashmere quality was good. The imagery felt somewhat off, giving the sweaters a bad feng shui vibe. In all their research of over 20 brands, they haven’t seen another brand put such large illustrations of people directly on the chest.
This piece provides a deeper look into Dreyden’s approach, its positioning within the luxury knitwear market, and its unique blend of artistic sensibility and affordable luxury.
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Eddy's Dreyden Sweater
Eddy is 175 cm tall and weighs 74 kg. For thicker winter cashmere sweaters, he prefers a size M from Dreyden, while for summer fine cashmere T-shirts, size S is more suitable.
Did you notice the black lock stitch in the left image? Based on our observations, we think it's a technique commonly used in garment factories in Dongguan. The same black lock stitch is also present on the Arch4 cashmere sweater I bought earlier.
Dreyden's winter cashmere sweaters start at 4000 RMB, which feels quite substantial. The materials are solid and thicker compared to others. For example, you can only buy a particularly thin men's cashmere sweater for 600 EUR at Arch4 , while at Lisa Yangyou can get a men's boucle cashmere sweater for 750 EUR, but Dreyden's thicker men's cashmere sweater is a much better deal, priced around 600 EUR.
Cashmere sweaters of this thickness at Le Kashacan cost up to 1190 EUR, and at both Arch4 and Lisa Yang you’re looking at about 800 EUR. The sweaters from Dreyden are therefore a much more cost-effective option.
Cable knit sweaters are truly timeless and never go out of style. When I first encountered cable-knit cashmere, people used to say the patterns might make you look heavier due to their bold textures. However, after I bought and wore a more solid, thick cable-knit sweater, I found the patterns to be uniquely beautiful and striking. Most clothes throughout the year are in simple flat-knit stitches, but winter cashmere sweaters, with their artistic cable patterns, stand out with a special texture.
Eddy particularly enjoys the solid texture of Dreyden’s cashmere sweater, calling it “like dragon scales.”
Additionally, thick cable-knit cashmere sweaters tend to be heavier and thicker than flat-knit ones (for more on cashmere knitting techniques, check out Lisa Yang). The various patterns in cable knits need to be raised, creating a contrast with the hollowed-out areas, making them more three-dimensional. This results in more material being used, making the sweater thicker and warmer.
In winter, it doesn’t matter if you look a little bulkier in a thick cable-knit cashmere sweater. It’s all about being cozy and wrapped up like a warm ball of yarn. Le Kasha's classic cashmere down jackets use round saddle sleeves, following a similar design philosophy. In fact, normal men's and women's body types won't appear bulky. With a well-fitted cable-knit cashmere sweater, it’ll only enhance your look.
Dreyden’s cashmere sweaters are well-cut, with years of experience working with high-end foreign brands, and the factory’s pattern-making skills are highly refined. The Hong Kong designers also take into account the proportions of Asian body types. This cable-knit sweater that Eddy wears fits him perfectly, with a tailored waist, arms, and shoulders. The cuffs, collar, and hem are ribbed to prevent cold air from getting in. Unfortunately, many women's high-neck thick cashmere sweaters, like those from Lisa Yang (such as the Heidi and Therese series), have loose necklines, wide hems, and side slits that allow the cold air to seep in. Their overly loose cuts don’t flatter the figure. This type of sweater design, which is often seen on American fashion bloggers, is trendy, but it’s not as well-suited for people with smaller frames like those of Chinese individuals.
The back design of Dreyden's grey cashmere sweater is also very well-fitted. There’s enough fabric around the waist area to create a bit of space, providing a comfortable, breathable fit, unlike a tight, form-fitting design.
I’ve looked at several thick men's cashmere sweaters, and they all tend to leave some extra room at the waist rather than clinging to the body.
Eddy pairs his sweater with Sandro wool pants. While Sandro's women's garments often use viscose blends, their men's wool pants are definitely worth recommending—good value for money and a great fit that flatters the male figure.
The two fine cashmere sweaters I bought earlier have a similar cut to LP's style—well-fitted to the body. If I had a slightly smaller stomach and some chest muscle, they’d look even better. I bought them in red-brown and grey colors.
Epilogue
Dreyden is still clearing stock, so there are still some hidden gems to be found. Eddy and I discussed the differences in design between domestic and international brands. After looking at so many brands, it's clear that domestic designers often struggle to capture that "old money" style that is so easily recognizable in international brands. The kind of luxurious, refined silhouette where the fabric is more substantial, the waist is perfectly cinched, and the sleeves are just the right amount of relaxed. The quality is also higher. Even when it’s a Chinese designer, the fits from brands established overseas tend to be better. It feels like, not just in fashion, but across the whole society, domestic groups still don’t pay as much attention to clothes or place much emphasis on fashion education. In contrast, Japanese fashion brands are much more focused on fit and design.
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