17 Top Luxury Men's Suit Brands for Gentlemen
This is my first in-depth understanding of suits, hoping to provide an introductory overview and basic knowledge reserve. Suits are quite a professional field with distinct group characteristics, where different people often have their own favored and beloved styles. This article is based solely on personal experience and a unique perspective, attempting to provide an initial interpretation of the world of suits.
The first section introduces the development history of women's suits and brands I believe are worth noting, the second section analyzes the differences in British, American, and Italian suit styles, and delves into design details—details that are precisely the key standards for judging the quality of a coat's cut. The third section introduces major suit brands by country, with the clarification that these brands are almost exclusively men's, with only Kiton, Tom Ford, and Huntsman offering women's collections.
Article length is 10,000 characters. Male readers who already understand suits can skip the first section.
Female Blazer
Since suits are primarily worn by men, the British, Italian, American suits, and major suit brands predominantly focus on men. Therefore, I will also introduce the wearing experience of women's suits and some related brands.
From Christian Dior's Bar Jacket after World War II, Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking in the 70s, Armani in the 80s, Mugler in the 90s, to the now Savile Row-named The Row, and Blaze Milano dedicated to creating professional women's suits, women's suits have been continuously experimenting and breaking through.
In 1947, Christian Dior's women's Bar Jacket featured rounded shoulders, fitted sleeves, a pronounced waist design, and a unique hem silhouette.
YSL's smoking suit in the 70s had more linear shoulder and waist lines, displaying a clear contour and structural sense, with a style trending towards neutrality.
In the 80s, Giorgio Armani's women's suits became more loose and oversized, with wider padded shoulders, waistline trending towards straight lines, an overall loose silhouette, presenting a sense that was both robust and comfortable. These oversized suits were most famously worn by Julia Roberts
Mugler in the 90s featured even more exaggerated shoulder pads, with the waist borrowing the cinched design from Dior in the 50s, creating a strong contrast between the broad shoulders and slim waist.
However, the women's suit market might be impacted by various colorful Chanel-style jackets and Miu Miu cashmere cardigans. Although the proportion of female labor force continues to increase, the reality is that men still dominate the workplace, with suit-wearing occasions still predominantly male. Currently, there is no suit tailoring equivalent to Savile Row specifically for women.
Brands specializing in Chanel-style jackets include Soonil (beloved by Korean aristocratic women), Shanghai's Crush Collection, luxury brands Celine and Chanel themselves, and many women's fashion brands have also launched a few Chanel-style jackets.
To purchase high-quality women's suits, one typically needs to choose women's collections from comprehensive ready-to-wear brands like Armani, YSL, Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton. Newer "quiet luxury" brands like Blaze Milano, Prune Goldschmidt, The Row Armarium, Setchu, Roland Mauret, in comparison, are slightly inferior in both fabric and cut.
From my current understanding and from a fabric enthusiast's perspective, the best quality women's suits come from the women's collections of top luxury brands like Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, followed by Armarium and The Row, and then Blaze Milano, Prune Goldschmidt, Setchu, and Roland Mauret.
Brands like YSL, Celine, Mugler, and Dior have such diverse product lines that, although they also have suits, due to excessive capitalization by large groups, they often use cheaper synthetic fabrics to increase profit margins, and their brand labels seem overly marketed. Therefore, I don't particularly like them. For these mass luxury brands, I'm more interested in their rise and development history. Regular readers of my articles will notice that I hardly discuss these brands. As for Giorgio Armani, although often discounted with decent quality, I've only seen men's collections in sales channels in China.
If you want to experience high-end men's custom suits, you can visit Huntsman & Sons on London's Savile Row.
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Differences Between English, Italian, and American Suits
English, Italian, and American suits differ in style, but it's important to note that each suit brand borrows from each other in specific details like pockets, cuffs, collars, and vents. For example, Italian suits represented by Naples style might lean towards English details in some aspects; conversely, English brands often incorporate casual Italian style elements.
Not every suit is strictly designed according to the style differences described below. Style itself is a blurry concept, and overly precise categorization would be inappropriate.
Distinguishing suit styles primarily involves examining the shoulders and waist. These two areas are considered the core and key factors influencing a garment's cut, whether it's a sweater, dress, or suit. Secondary considerations include sleeve length, cuffs, armholes, and hem details.
American style is the easiest to recognize. As mentioned in the first section, Armani in the 80s primarily used American style. This style was popular in the 80s and 90s, exemplified by the gray suits worn by Julia Roberts and Brad Pitt in the opening scene of "The Sixth Sense", which are typical American style.
American style typically features simple, straight-line designs for shoulders and waist, usually broader than in the images below. This design is particularly suitable for more muscular Americans, as demonstrated in "The Wolf of Wall Street". The cut is relatively straightforward, and I've noticed many quiet luxury women's brands often adopt American suit design.
English suits have straighter shoulder lines, thicker shoulder padding, some even with chest reinforcement, with a pronounced waist tapering to create a triangular structure. Due to the colder British climate, English suits typically use thicker fabrics. Characteristic features include flap pockets, with representative brands including Savile Row's Bespoke tailors, Tom Ford (though an American brand), and Dunhill.
From the image below, you can see the slightly raised shoulders and sleeve connection point, though most English suits are not as raised as this picture. This design is primarily a characteristic of French suits.
The raised shoulder silhouette where the sleeve meets the shoulder is a hallmark of French suit brands, making these suits easily identifiable. Beyond the raised shoulders, the cut remains either Italian or English in style. Detailed characteristics of French suits will be discussed later when introducing Cifonelli.
The image below shows an English suit on the left and an Italian suit on the right. Looking at the hem below the buttons, the English suit has a smaller, straighter opening, while the Italian suit has a larger, more curved opening. Overall, Italian suits appear more casual, while English suits are more formal.
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Italian suits are primarily represented by the Naples style. Due to the region's low-latitude, hot climate, fabrics are typically light and thin, often using lightweight wool and silk (though not exclusively). Lining is generally either minimal or half-lined. Naples suit waistlines are not as sharply tapered as English suits, requiring body control, and not as straight as American suits, instead striking a balance between fashion and comfort, with pockets typically designed as patch pockets.
In terms of cut, Italian suits have rounder shoulders, as most do not use shoulder pads (or use extremely thin ones). They typically employ the Spalla Camicia shirt shoulder design, where stitching naturally shapes the shoulder, creating a rounder, more flexible shoulder line that allows greater movement (suitable for hot climates).
Beyond the mainstream Naples style, Italian suits also have Roman and Milanese variants. The latter two typically have thicker shoulder pads, though not as thick as English suits, with shoulder designs leaning towards straight lines, combined with a relatively straight waistline compared to the Naples style. Brioni represents the Roman style, while Zegna represents the Milanese style.
The difference between Roman and Milanese styles is that Roman suits usually feature double vents, with less pronounced waist tapering, leaning towards American style with more silhouette allowance, offering more comfort and less body restriction—suitable for more robust builds and conveying an old-money aesthetic. Milanese style is more business-oriented, often with single or no vents, with a more pronounced waist, better suited to slimmer body types.
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In the images below, the brown Brioni suit on the left is closer to the American style with a larger silhouette, while the two suits on the right lean towards the English style with stiffer, broader shoulder and sleeve designs.
Naples style representative brands include Isaia, Cesare Attolini, and Kiton.
English representatives: Tom Ford, Huntsman & Sons (Savile Row custom), Dunhill
English suit shoulders indeed look good, with a sexy waist tapering
Tom Ford looks different on slim and muscular body types. The English suit, which originally emphasizes the inverted triangle shape, appears even more pronounced on a muscular build, highlighting shoulders and chest muscles
A muscular man in a Naples-style Italian suit looks like this. Compared side by side, the English suit has more sexual tension, while the Italian suit conveys more of a wealthy, relaxed feeling
Huntsman & Sons - Colin Firth wore a Huntsman & Sons custom suit in "Kingsman". Compared to Italian men, I prefer the English style: more artistic and quiet, looking more distinguished in a trench coat
From these two movie stills' back views, the broad shoulders and narrow waist are clearly visible
Dunhill has made some modifications to traditional English suits, with less tight waist tapering. Runway looks often pair with trench coats, very characteristic of British style.
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Other suit styles, leaning towards youthful:
Drake's, a British brand established in 1977, designs shoulders with more roundness, less pronounced waistlines, neither traditional English style nor as broad as American style, slightly reminiscent of Roman style. However, due to more fitted sleeves, the overall effect skews younger. Drake's brand style is generally more vintage, also producing retro-colored outerwear like military green windbreakers and down jackets, with a visual style more oriented towards outdoor aesthetics. Barbour enthusiasts might also appreciate Drake's.
I find Celine's menswear similar to Drake's, with shorter and narrower sleeves. The only difference is straighter shoulder curves, a more direct waistline, and an overall more fitted cut, making it more suitable for younger people.
Overall, Italian, English, and American suits can serve as a basic understanding, but choosing a truly suitable style depends more on individual preference for specific suit brands. Comprehensive consideration of cut, fabric, color, and price leads to the most appropriate selection.
Taking my partner Eddy as an example, at 175cm tall and 75kg, he looks sharp in a French-style suit (shoulder and sleeve head more French-styled, though a British Dunhill brand). Italian suits make him appear more mature and elegant, with an old-money quality. Though stylistically different, both look excellent. I think he somewhat resembles Colin Firth—as he ages, he'll likely become even more handsome.
Suit Brands
Suit brands are primarily dominated by Italian (especially Naples) and British brands. Even American suit brands often lean towards English or American styles. Brands with pronounced American style include Armani and recent YSL. Since suit-wearers primarily come from the affluent class in the Northeastern United States, which more strongly advocates traditional British culture, local suit styles tend to be more English-influenced. In contrast, some Japanese suit brands are more inclined towards the casual, relaxed, old-money Italian style.
France
Cifonelli
Founded in Rome in 1880 by Giuseppe Cifonelli, his son Arturo was sent to England to learn thick tailoring. Arturo's suits became the representative style of Cifonelli. In 1926, Arturo moved the brand to France. The third generation, Adriano Cifonelli, gradually expanded the brand from an elite circle of French political elites and became Hermes' custom suit service provider from 1992-2007.
Currently, Cifonelli is managed by the fourth generation: Loreno (Adriano's son) and Massimo (Lorenzo's cousin), becoming France's top suit brand (when discussing French suit brands, Cifonelli is essentially the primary reference).
In 2007, after the fourth generation took over, they added ready-to-wear and made-to-measure lines.
The sleeve head where the sleeve meets the shoulder uses thick, stiff material, creating a distinct connection point—a characteristic of French suits. The raised shoulder increases the garment's distinctiveness. The raised shoulder was even praised by Karl Lagerfeld as "a shoulder recognizable from a hundred meters away".
This raised shoulder might be influenced by 19th-century men's tailcoats, where the shoulder and sleeve connection was prominently shaped.
Cifonelli also has some suits with less pronounced raised shoulders, leaning more towards straight lines, but due to the structured sleeve and shoulder connection, they still maintain that distinctive feel.
The scene in "The Dreamers" where Theo wears a green suit while going through the trash is classic. Looking at the green suit now, the shoulder and sleeve connection resembles the Cifonelli style. Indeed, angular shoulders look good on both men and women.
Cifonelli has a design feature of using Milanese buttonholes, which are first cut open and then manually hand-sewn around the edges, making the buttonholes more prominent and less flat compared to traditional buttonholes. This type of buttonhole is mainly used by Italian-founded French suit brands.
Like the men's suit from Celine shown above, the buttonhole is paired with a carnation flower, and a brooch can also be worn as decoration.
Cifonelli faces challenges in craft continuation and the aging of artisans. Therefore, in 2000, they purchased Claude Rousseau's workshop and its craftsmen. In 2008, they acquired Gabriel Gonzalez, who is now over 70 years old and still works at the Cifonelli Rue Marbeuf store.
Camps de Luca
Equally renowned as Cifonelli, but slightly less known, with fewer media reports and online clothing photos. Founded in 1969 by Joseph Camps and Mario de Luca. In 1982, the second generation, Marc de Luca, began managing the store. Currently, the third generation is run by Charles de Luca and Julien de Luca. Mario had learned tailoring techniques in Rome and Milan before opening his first shop in France. They only offer custom services.
Camps de Luca's French shoulder is less pronounced, with an overall more subdued and business-oriented color and style.
Zilli
A top-tier French menswear brand, on par with Kiton, known for high-end men's leather clothing and accessories. Specializing in silk shirts, leather jackets, especially crocodile skin jackets. Suits and coats often feature silk lining.
Although primarily focused on casual jackets, silk shirts, short sleeves, and customizable leather bags, belts, and precious shoes, their suit cuts and materials are still good. However, their suits represent an Italian rather than a French style.
The Zilli brand was established by Alain Schimel in 1978, initially positioned as a high-end men's leather clothing and accessories brand, beginning international market promotion in countries like Japan and the Middle East.
From 1978-early 1990s, they primarily focused on high-end men's leather jackets and coats.
From 1990-2000, they gradually expanded their product line, beginning to introduce suit, shirt, and accessory collections.
United States
Tom Ford
Tom Ford is the latest established brand among these men's suit labels, founded in 2005 in the United States. Despite its relatively recent origins, the brand excels in craftsmanship and design, and its marketing is quite effective. Even if people don’t know exactly what Tom Ford does, they have likely heard of the name.
Tom Ford provided suits for Daniel Craig in the 007 series and significantly elevated the casual look of Colin Firth in The Single Man. The costumes for Colin in The Kingsman were also designed by Tom Ford.
Tom Ford has consistently adhered to a strongly structured British style. His suits are even more British than those of traditional British brands like Dunhill. This is not to say that American suit brands are all American in style, but Tom Ford, having studied at Savile Row, and having a personal preference for this style, creates suits that lean more towards the British tradition. He prefers substantial, structured shoulders, wider notched lapels, and almost always uses the peak lapel design. The waist is tightly tapered, emphasizing a triangular silhouette.
Bijan
Founded in 1976 by Bijan Pakzad, an Iranian-American designer of Persian descent, Bijan is headquartered in New York, USA. Known primarily for men's fashion and fragrances, Bijan’s perfumes are especially famous, often referred to as "liquid gold" due to their high cost, which rivals that of gold.
Currently, Bijan has two stores in Beverly Hills, and a new store opened in Las Vegas in 2018. The image below shows the Beverly Hills store, where a Rolls-Royce matching the brand's color is parked outside. Bijan collaborates on limited editions with Rolls-Royce, and the store’s floor tiles are even imprinted with Bijan's logo. Next door, there is a Frette store, which is one of the most luxurious Italian bed linen brands.
The Beverly Hills government even designated March 8th as Bijan Day, recognizing Bijan’s contribution to enhancing the luxury shopping image of Beverly Hills.
Bijan’s clientele consists of high-profile individuals, and its prices surpass even brands like Hermes and Kiton. Unlike these brands, which cater to the general public, Bijan operates on an invitation-only sales system. It only serves the top echelons of various industries, with a style that is lavish and luxurious. This makes it a favorite among old-money American capitalists and Middle Eastern billionaires, in a way that aligns with The Great Gatsby lifestyle.
Bijan started with custom menswear in 1976, and by 2009, five U.S. presidents were wearing Bijan suits. The store even displays the signatures of these presidents.
Bijan’s suits have transcended traditional definitions of menswear. For this brand, you can get whatever quality you desire, making it not just a clothing brand, but an experience.
In 1979, Bijan launched its men's fragrance line, which gradually became one of the top brands in the perfume industry.
Bijan has also continuously collaborated with influential figures across various fields. In 1992, he worked with George H.W. Bush for his presidential campaign. In 1996, Bijan partnered with Bo Derek, who was then named the world’s most beautiful woman. In 1997, he collaborated with Michael Jordan, establishing his brand in the high-end sports circles. In 2000, Bijan worked with Colombian artist Fernando Botero to expand his brand's image in the art world.
In 2008, Bijan partnered with Bugatti to create a limited-edition series of Veyron cars, further expanding his brand’s presence in the luxury car world.
In 2019, Bijan collaborated with Aston Martin to create a limited-edition car in Bijan’s signature yellow.
In 2024, Bijan continued its collaborations with Ferrari to produce a limited-edition sports car.
Bijan is truly a mind-blowing brand that changes the perception of luxury. I have never seen any clothing brand collaborate on custom luxury cars with Rolls-Royce or Aston Martin before.
The clientele of Hermes and Bijan is in completely different leagues. In 2014, Bijan launched a women’s line, and its handbags are even higher-end than Hermes. You could buy 200 Hermes bags, but only one Bijan. Transitioning from Hermes to Bijan signifies a significant leap in wealth and social class. The gap between the affluent and the ultra-wealthy is even larger. For ordinary people to enter this stratum, it would require extraordinary talent, the kind that makes a lasting impact on history; mere effort is often not enough.
While there are no comparable brands in China, there is a similar consumer group and product base, particularly among old Chinese families. However, due to national circumstances, they are too discreet.
Similarly, Henry Poole in the UK has tailored suits for numerous kings and emperors, but due to the more reserved cultural tradition of Europe, the brand has quietly continued its work without much fanfare.
United Kingdom
Many 20th-century aristocratic novels mention going to London for tailor-made clothes. The ones I've read include Moscow Gentlemen, The Razor's Edge, and the movie The Age of Innocence.
Henry Poole & Co
Henry Poole was founded in 1806 by James Poole, initially located in Brunswick Square, London, and known for making military uniforms and formal wear. In 1846, James Poole’s son, Henry Poole, took over the business and moved the tailoring shop to Savile Row, officially entering the aristocratic circles. In the mid-19th century, it invented the modern evening suit (Dinner Jacket) at the request of the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII), which later evolved into the Tuxedo we know today, changing the history of formal wear.
Henry Poole has tailored for ten kings, including several shahs, the Maharajahs of India, and the last Emperor Napoleon.
Today, Henry Poole is the official tailor for many royal families, including those of the UK, France, and Russia, and remains famous for serving the aristocracy and gentlemen.
Currently, Henry Poole is managed by the 6th generation of the family, Simon Cundey and Angus Cundey.
Huntsman & Sons
Huntsman & Sons is the choice for bespoke suits in The Kingsman films, Downton Abbey, and for figures like Winston Churchill. Compared to Henry Poole, which has a more royal-oriented identity, Huntsman’s business is broader. To cater to American clients, they expanded their shop to Manhattan and even offer bespoke services for women. Huntsman also collaborates with Loro Piana fabrics and provides a range of men's ready-to-wear, accessories, including knitwear, T-shirts, overcoats, and hunting jackets. Huntsman is considered one of the most modern and market-oriented brands on Savile Row.
The brand was acquired by Belgian financier and economist Pierre Lagrange and operates with a capitalized business model. Huntsman has a creative director, and each season, they hold new product launches.
Huntsman was founded in 1849 by Henry Huntsman, initially specializing in bespoke hunting attire for British aristocrats and the upper class.
In 1865, Huntsman received a commission from French Emperor Napoleon III to create a hunting jacket for him. This further solidified Huntsman’s reputation in European aristocratic circles.
In 1919, after World War I, Huntsman redefined its brand direction, shifting from hunting attire to high-end men’s bespoke clothing, especially formalwear and business suits.
In 2000, Huntsman launched a new ready-to-wear collection to cater to clients who couldn’t wait for custom-made suits. The brand began expanding its international market, building a long-term clientele in the United States and Asia.
In 2016, they introduced bespoke fabric services (Bespoke Cloth), allowing clients to fully customize the fabric of their suits.
Huntsman suits are known for their slim X-shaped cut ("Nipped Waist"), with structured shoulders and a tightly tailored waist that creates a perfect proportion. Compared to Tom Ford's dark gray tones, Huntsman uses a variety of plaids, influenced by its hunting attire heritage, giving the suits a more vintage feel. Their fabrics are generally thicker than Tom Ford’s.
This set of images can be compared with Brioni’s, which also favors plaid patterns, allowing the clear distinction between Italian and British styles.
Anderson & Sheppard
Anderson & Sheppard was founded in 1906 by Peter Gustavus Anderson and Archie Sheppard, initially focusing on traditional British tailoring. In the 1910s, Anderson & Sheppard established its unique tailoring style, known as the "Drape Cut." Edward VIII became one of the brand's loyal clients.
Drape Cut
The Drape Cut features additional fabric in the chest and back areas, creating a sense of space and flexibility. Unlike Huntsman, which is closely fitted, the extra fabric in Anderson & Sheppard suits forms gentle pleats.
The shoulder pads are also relatively thin, rounded, and the sleeve heads have extra fabric to prevent the sleeves from being too tight. The armholes are positioned higher, closer to the armpit, providing more freedom of movement for the arms.
In 2011, the brand launched its first ready-to-wear collection, including classic suit jackets, trousers, and coats, to appeal to clients who could not wait for the bespoke process.
In 2013, Anderson & Sheppard introduced The Haberdashery collection, offering high-end casual menswear and accessories such as knitwear, scarves, and shirts, further expanding the brand's product range.
Anderson & Sheppard’s Drape Cut offers more comfort than the X-shaped cut. From the images, you can see that the chest area is more pronounced and slightly fuller, with some pleats or folds appearing.
Dunhill
Dunhill was founded in 1893 by Alfred Dunhill, initially focusing on manufacturing automobile accessories, launching the "Motorities" series to meet the needs of automotive enthusiasts in the upper class at the time.
In 1907, Dunhill opened its first tobacco shop in London, gradually becoming a symbol of gentlemanly culture. Cigarette accessories and lighters became iconic products of the brand.
In the 1920s, the brand expanded into men’s fashion accessories, including leather goods, luggage, and clothing.
In the 1960s and 1970s, Dunhill shifted its focus towards high-end bespoke tailoring and ready-to-wear collections, positioning itself as a luxury men's brand. The designs incorporated lighter elements into traditional British tailoring, attracting the younger elite.
In the 1980s, the brand launched a bespoke custom-made series for high-end clients, emphasizing craftsmanship and the luxurious bespoke experience.
Dunhill's suits, compared to the Savile Row brands mentioned earlier, have a slightly more casual fit. The tailoring is closer to Cifonelli and Camps de Luca's French style, with higher sleeve heads and a sharper, more defined silhouette.
Drake's
Previously mentioned, Drake's offers a youthful, vintage-inspired suit style. The sleeves and length are typically shorter, with frequent use of Scottish tartans, houndstooth, and fishbone patterns, as well as hints of Ivy Style, reflecting a student-inspired look.
In 1977, Michael Drake founded the brand in East London, initially focusing on handmade ties and scarves, quickly gaining a reputation.
In the 1980s, it became a benchmark brand for high-end men's accessories in the UK and Europe.
In 2010, the brand was acquired by Mark Cho and Michael Hill, with Hill taking on the role of creative director.
In 2013, Drake's launched its first ready-to-wear collection, including knitwear and outerwear, paving the way for its suit line.
In 2015, the brand released a suit and jacket collection, which quickly garnered attention for its "effortlessly elegant" style.
Drake's suits lean towards the Italian style, using soft Italian shoulder lines, less emphasis on waist suppression, and lighter fabrics, giving them a more casual, everyday feel compared to the more formal offerings of other brands.
Italy
The Italian representatives of Neapolitan tailoring include prominent suit brands: Cesare Attolini, Kiton, Isaia.
Kiton
Kiton was founded in 1968 by Ciro Paone in Naples, specializing in top-quality fabrics such as vicuña, baby cashmere, silk, and ultra-thin micron wool. Although Kiton started with a focus on bespoke tailoring, its ready-to-wear collections have gained widespread popularity for their luxurious quality and perfect fit.
Among the brands mentioned in this article, only Kiton, Tom Ford, and Huntsman have women’s lines.
Founded in 1968 by Ciro Paone in Naples, Kiton initially focused on providing high-end bespoke suits to the upper class, quickly earning a reputation through handcrafting and exquisite design.
In the 1970s and 1980s, Kiton expanded rapidly across Italy, beginning to offer bespoke suits to other European markets. The brand established itself in the luxury menswear market with exceptional craftsmanship, a comfortable wearing experience, and high-quality fabrics.
In the 1990s, Kiton expanded globally, entering luxury markets in the US, Asia, and other regions. The brand gradually introduced ready-to-wear collections to meet the demand of a broader customer base.
Since the 2000s, Kiton has opened flagship stores in numerous cities worldwide and partnered with top department stores. The brand continues to release innovative designs and collections, maintaining its leadership in the high-end menswear market.
Kiton has experienced slow growth in the Chinese market, but continues to show stable growth in markets like Japan, the US, and the UK.
Cesare Attolini
Vincenzo Attolini, known as the founder of "Neapolitan tailoring," revolutionized the suit-making process with a lighter, more comfortable cut, defining Naples' signature style. The brand's reputation is on par with Kiton.
In the 1930s, Vincenzo Attolini began his tailoring career in Naples, revolutionizing the traditional suit-making methods to create lighter and more comfortable suits. Before this, Naples still followed the English style of heavy, tightly-fitted suits that were unsuitable for the local hot climate.
In the 1950s, Cesare Attolini took over the family business, transforming it into a more professional high-end clothing brand, continuing his father's philosophy of craftsmanship and striving for perfection.
In the 1960s and 1970s, the brand gained recognition within Italian high society for its exceptional tailoring techniques and attention to detail, becoming one of the most iconic brands representing Italian gentleman's fashion.
In the 1980s and 1990s, Cesare Attolini began its international expansion, securing its place in the global high-end fashion market.
After 2000, the third generation of the family joined the management.
Isaia
Compared to Kiton and Cesare Attolini, Isaia's brand power and status are slightly lower. It mainly focuses on ready-to-wear, with no bespoke services, but it offers made-to-measure options. Its positioning is similar to that of Zegna and higher than Dunhill and Drake’s.
Founded in the 1920s in Naples by Enrico Isaia, the brand started as a small textile workshop selling high-quality fabrics to famous tailors.
In the 1950s and 1960s, Enrico Isaia’s sons joined the family business, transitioning from a simple tailoring shop into a more professional fashion brand, establishing its own production and design systems.
In the 1970s, the brand expanded its influence within Italy, developing the unique "Napoli" series, showcasing Naples' distinctive gentleman's tailoring style. The brand began to focus more on fabric innovation and selection.
In the 1980s, Isaia launched its international expansion, participating in international fashion shows and gradually building a reputation in the global high-end menswear market.
In the 1990s, Isaia expanded its product lines beyond suits to include casual wear and accessories, and began collaborating with top international designers and fashion buyers.
Brioni
Founded in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini on Via Barberini in Rome, Brioni is the only brand with its own tailoring academy. Every four years, 16 students passionate about the art of tailoring are selected to enter the academy and continue the brand’s craftsmanship legacy.
Brioni represents the quintessential Roman style and holds a similar status to Kiton and Attolini, though it has experienced a decline in recent years. In the 2000s, it was acquired by the Kering Group.
1945-1950s: Initially focused on high-end bespoke suits.
1950-1960s: Became the preferred brand for Hollywood stars and celebrities, providing costumes for the James Bond films.
1970-1980s: Expanded its product line to include accessories and casual collections, establishing an international sales network.
Armani
For suits, it’s best to look at Giorgio Armani and Armani Privé, as the brand’s classic straight-line cuts are most prominent in these collections. Armani’s golden era was the 80s and 90s, known for its iconic American-style suits. Nowadays, the brand has increasingly leaned into capital-driven operations.
Like Isaia, Giorgio Armani only offers made-to-measure suits and does not provide full bespoke services.
1975: Founded the Giorgio Armani brand in Milan.
1983: Launched Emporio Armani as the second-line brand.
1990: Launched Armani Exchange, a younger, more casual line.
2010: Introduced high-end bespoke services under Armani Privé.
2014: Giorgio Armani acquired the remaining 50% stake in A|X Armani Exchange, bringing the brand under 100% ownership. Armani planned to position A|X Armani Exchange as Italy’s first fast-fashion brand, targeting younger customers.
Zegna
Look at Zegna Couture and Ermenegildo Zegna for high-end suits.
Ermenegildo Zegna was founded in 1910 in Biella as a high-quality wool weaving mill. In the 1920s-1930s, it began supplying fabric to top international fashion houses and established its own wool standards.
1940-1950s: Started producing ready-to-wear and launched its first high-end suit collections.
1980-1990s: Zegna Couture, the high-end bespoke line, was established. However, it’s not handmade; it uses top industrial-grade craftsmanship with a combination of machine-made production and minimal hand-finishing details.
Stefano Ricci
Founded in Florence in 1972, Stefano Ricci is known for its eagle logo. In addition to ties, perfumes, and leather goods, its bespoke suits are also of excellent quality. The brand operates over 60 stores worldwide, focusing primarily on ready-to-wear.
1972: Founded, initially focusing on high-end men’s shirts and ties.
1985: Expanded into full suit tailoring and high-end menswear collections.
1990s: Began expanding into international markets, establishing a reputation in the global luxury market.
2000: Started introducing more accessories and lifestyle products.
After 2010: The brand was taken over by the founder’s son, Niccolo Ricci, who continues to maintain the family tradition.
Postscript
Among these brands, different tiers can be distinguished based on their brand strength.
Top-tier brands, or those offering only handcrafted bespoke services, include:
United Kingdom: Henry Poole & Co, Anderson & Sheppard, Huntsman & Sons
France: Cifonelli, Camps de Luca, Zilli
United States: Bijan, Tom Ford
Italy: Kiton, Cesare Attolini, Brioni
Among these, Henry Poole & Co, Cifonelli, Bijan, Kiton, Cesare Attolini, and Zilli are considered the most prestigious.
Brands in a slightly lower tier, offering semi-bespoke or made-to-measure services, include:
Zegna, Armani, Isaia, Stefano Ricci
In the next tier down, we have:
Dunhill, Drake's, Ring Jacket, Lardini
Suits have almost become synonymous with high-end fashion. Writing this article made me realize that, aside from fabric, what I really seek in clothes is the craftsmanship akin to a well-made suit. Embroidery, colors, and exaggerated styles are secondary. Comparing men’s suit brands with women’s fashion reveals the stark difference: men’s fashion tends to be classic and understated, with just a few colors and patterns, with alterations focused on waist, sleeves, and shoulder details. On the other hand, women’s fashion is filled with endless colors, varying lengths, and sharp innovations. The two are entirely different worlds.
Looking at different countries' suit brands from various eras makes one marvel at how everyone has their own way of living and their unique life trajectory, with countless possibilities.
Reflecting on films from the 00s and 90s, men wearing suits were undeniably handsome. The same can be said for the Chinese film industry. After the likes of Leung Ka-fai and Tony Leung Chiu-wai, there seems to be a gap in the representation of true gentlemen.
This article mainly focuses on suits, so brands like BC, LP, and N.Peal, which also offer some suits, were not included.
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